Tour Overview
Grade: demanding–strenuous
Time: 10 days
Distance: 41.5 miles/67km to southeast face, and 47.7 miles/77km return to Bumthang = 89.3 miles/144km
Altitude gain: 9059ft/2762m
Altitude loss: 9141ft/2787m
This trek explores Gangkar Punsum’s southeast face, rarely visited by trekkers, offering a wild experience. Starting from Jakar, follow the Bumthang Chhu/Chamkhar Chhu up to Gangkar Punsum’s southeast face. The return journey can either follow the same route or traverse Thole La, which may be challenging for pack animals. From the split in the trail, ascend Thole La (15,520ft/4732m), then descend to meet the trail between Jakar and Gangkar Punsum base camp and Lunana. Crossing Thole La from the Chamkhar Chhu side is easier than from the Dur hot springs side.
Day 1: From Jakar drive 2–3km beyond Toktu Zampa (towards Zhabjethang) trek to beyond Khakthang army camp
Day 2: 1hr after Khakthang army camp to Gophu
Day 3: Gophu to Tsampa and Tsawuu
Day 4: Tsawuu to Bamurpa
Day 5: Rest/exploring day in Bamurpa
Day 6: Bamurpa to Tsampa
Day 7: Tsampa to Solang Chhu (Thole Tsho)
Day 8: Solang Chhu (Thole Tsho) to Lambrong via Thole La
Day 9: Lambrong to Lungsum
Day 10: Lungsum to Dur and drive (1hr) to Jakar
Day 1: From Jakar drive 2–3km beyond Toktu Zampa (towards Zhabjethang) trek to beyond Khakthang army camp
Drive north from Jakar to Toktu Zampa, where you descend to a foot suspension bridge over the Dur Chhu river. Pass by Thankabi Gompa, adorned with a long mani wall, and continue alongside fields and a beautifully carved Buddha image. Choose a trail close to the Bumthang Chhu river, leading into the Ngang valley. After 2.5 hours, reach Ngang Lhakhang and proceed northwest. At about 3 hours into the hike, bypass Zhabjethang village via a suspension bridge and continue to Shobtang village, home to a primary school and monastery. Further on, pass Khakthang military camp, with campsite options before and after it along the Bumthang Chhu river.
Day 2: 1hr after Khakthang army camp to Gophu
The trek begins through dense bamboo forest, crossing streams via log bridges. Stone dams help maintain the trail. After 30 minutes, reach a Bhutanese-style bridge at Sadukum (9692ft/2955m), near a camping meadow.
Continue, crossing more streams and log bridges. After over 2 hours, reach Pesa or Petso (9940ft/3030m), a campsite with a nearby cave and legend of Guru Rinpoche. Trek for 2-3 more hours to the next campsite, possibly encountering yak herders. At Bomsang Tang, cross stream 50 before reaching the suspension bridge, Riphuk. Walk to Bomsang Zham (10,760ft/3280m), then Gophu or Gombu (10,722ft/3269m), watching for musk deer.
Day 3: Gophu to Tsampa and Tsawuu
Sunlight reaches camp around 0800hr. Trek through mixed forest, watching for Himalayan blood pheasants. After 3 hours, find a clearing suitable for lunch (11,628ft/3545m).
As you ascend, bamboo forest transitions to alpine forest. At Chelemmarchhu (11,800ft/3597m), a big stone marks a legend about butter turning to stone. Nearby, Tsampa military camp (12,054ft/3675m) provides permit checks and information about Thole La (15,521ft/4732m).
Cross the first bridge over Mela Chhu and climb northeast towards Tsambar Brakhsam. Offerings are made at chortens. Cross a second bridge over Bumthang Chhu, leading to Thole La. Campsites are available around Tsampa, with options to continue towards Gangkar Punsum. Trek for another 30 minutes to settlements with views of Gangkar Punsum (24,735ft/7541m).
Day 4: Tsawuu to Bamurpa
Walk along the river through a lush forest with lichen-draped trees, passing six settlements along the way. The area is bustling during summer with Bumthang yak herders.
After Tsawuu, climb steeply for 30 minutes alongside the main waterfall, reaching a thinning forest at 3900m. Yak gates mark the trail’s name change to the ‘trail of the 1 million stones’ after a sulphur-based water source.
Three hours from camp, arrive at Singo (13,660ft/4165m) in an open area above the treeline. Continue past Gutchen settlement (13,710ft/4180m), where Punakha monks’ yaks graze until Bumthang yaks arrive. Reach Cedi, with seven houses at 14,300ft/4360m.
For those adjusted to the altitude, trek another hour to Bamurpa (14,530ft/4430m). Gankar Punsum’s peak looms behind an ice face, with houses atop the moraine opposite Bamurpa.
Day 5: Rest/exploring day in Bamurpa
At Bamurpa, you have numerous hiking options:
- Trek 3 hours up the valley toward Buurtsam, a new yak herders’ camp established due to glacier retreat.
- Follow a grassy ridge from the west, crossing the river below a group of six houses at 14,630ft/4460m. After an hour, reach Chogophu at 15,320ft/4670m. From here, ascend to the ridge top or explore deeper into the valley.
- Ascend steeply to a ridge where strong winds prevail at around 16,400ft/5000m. Enjoy impressive views of Gangkar Punsum and yesterday’s route to the south.
Day 6: Bamurpa to Tsampa
Reverse the route from day 4, taking a bit longer to reach the meadow near the confluence and the army camp at Tsampa (12,054ft/3675m). Enjoy the lower altitude for a restful night’s sleep!
Day 7: Tsampa to Solang Chhu (Thole Tsho)
Descend from camp to the wooden bridge, crossing the Bumthang Chhu/Chamkhar Chhu. Parallel the river briefly before a steep 60m climb through a landslide area to a yak herders’ gate. Navigate through dense forest for 1hr to reach Nagar, passing through Tokshung with yak herder huts. Ascend steeply through a narrow gully, reaching Kesi and Bopsar above the treeline. Enjoy views of Monla Karchung La from Kesi. Continue for 1hr to reach the alpine lake, Solang Chhu (Thole Tsho), camping just above it.
Day 8: Solang Chhu (Thole Tsho) to Lambrong via Thole La
After an hour of climbing past Tiksang herders’ camp, reach Thole La (15,520ft/4732m), adorned with prayer flags. Descend steeply into the Thashi Chhu valley, reaching Lambrong herders’ hut (13,350ft/4070m), a suitable campsite.
Day 9: Lambrong to Lungsum
Descend the Thashi Chhu valley for 1hr until you reach Labi Thinla, where the trail joins the route between Jakar and Dur hot springs/Gangkar Punsum. Follow the Gorzam Chhu south-southeast, crossing numerous small tributaries and footbridges. Pass through Kurpang (11,578ft/3530m) and Lungsum (10,400ft/3170m), suitable for camping after 4–5hr of trekking. Continuing all the way to Dur in a single day would be too long (9hr).
Day 10: Lungsum to Dur and drive (1hr) to Jakar
From Lungsum, descend and cross the Gorzam Chhu, then climb through mixed forest for over 1hr to reach a meadow below Gortshom. Descend to a footbridge over the Khamki Chhu, with Lurawa Gompa located about 400m higher on the east side. Continue south for 1.5hr to reach Dur, where the trek ends at the confluence of Gorzam Chhu and Dur Chhu. The drive back to Jakar takes 1hr.
What should I bring with me?
· Good walking shoes
· Sunglasses
· Sunscreen (highest possible)
· Woolen cap
· Prescription medications/ first aid (only basic first aid is/ can be provided)
· Sturdy and ‘broken-in’ trekking boots
· Rain gear
· Torch (flashlight)
· Insect Repellent
· Gaiters
· Gloves
· T-shirts
· Comfortable walking pants
· Down jacket
· Day bag (to carry your requirements while walking)
· Energy chocolate bars
· Water bottle
· Memory card and batteries for camera and flashlight
· Toiletries
Maximum recommended load for trekking is 25kgs (55 lbs), or 1/5th of body weight.
What will be the weather like in Bhutan?
Days are normally warm, nights can be quite chilly. In winter, the temperature is below freezing point. Monsoon shower in summer can be expected with heavy rains in July and August.
Preventing Altitude Sickness
· Avoid alcohol, sleeping pills or other narcotics, they may decrease ventilation, intensify hypoxemia and make symptoms worse.
· Drink plenty of fluids.
· Avoid heavy exercise at high altitudes. Mild exercise is okay.
· Diamox (acetazolamide) 125 mg. tablets taken twice a day is F.D.A. approved for prevention and treatment of A.M.S. Although it originally was released as a diuretic (water pill), it also helps you breath deeper and faster. This allows you to get more oxygen. Diamox is especially helpful with the sleeping problems and other symptoms of A.M.S.
· Home oxygen will relieve symptoms. Home oxygen is safe, cheap and easy to use. It can be used at night when symptoms are worse and off and on during the day as symptoms dictate.
· If nothing else works, you can return to lower altitude. Going down to lower altitudes will always help relieve the symptoms of AMS, it is also one of the best ways to overcome the sickness.
Acute mountain sickness is caused by lack of Oxygen when traveling to higher elevations. This usually occurs in individuals exposed to an altitude of over 7000 ft (2100 m) who have not had a chance to acclimate to the altitude before engaging in physical activities. Mountaineers, trekkers, skiers and mountain travelers are at the greatest risk. While individual tolerance varies, symptoms usually appear within several hours, with those in weaker physical conditions being more susceptible. Headache, fatigue, nausea, shortness of breath and poor appetite are the initial symptoms. Inability to sleep is also frequently reported. In more severe cases, thinking and judgment may become impaired. An uncommon but potentially fatal complication called high altitude pulmonary edema, caused by fluid build-up in the lungs can also occur in rare cases.
The symptoms of acute mountain sickness can be prevented or minimized by gradually ascending (less than 500 meters/day) over several days to give your body a chance to acclimate to the higher altitude. Taking the prescription medication Diamox (acetazolamide) 250 mg three times a day has been shown to speed up the acclimatization process and can be taken shortly before and during the ascent. Do not take this medication if you are allergic to sulfa drugs. This medication is a mild diuretic and may work by changing the body’s acid-base balance and stimulating breathing. Dexamethasone 8 mg once a day has also been shown to be effective. However, this steroid medication may have more adverse effects. Once symptoms occur, they usually improve over several days without treatment. However, if they become severe, they can be relieved with the administration of oxygen or descent to a lower altitude.
Packing
A soft but strong duffel bag luggage is best suited on treks as it will be loaded on horse backs. A small back pack (day bag) to carry your essential things on the way like rain gear, wind stopper, camera, batteries, water bottle, candies etc.